When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.
“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
Tech enthusiast and digital strategist with over a decade of experience in the industry, passionate about sharing knowledge.